At last Nairobi.

The trip to Nairobi was my travel hell. Pretty good at Heathrow at 6.20am. And service (for mobility challenged) through check in and security was super fast. And I was put on the plane first - a first for me. British airways had changed the plane last moment so the couple next to me were aggrieved to not have the extra leg room they had paid for (and he was tall!), that there was no food or drink menu available, and no charge ports or entertainment option. I wasn't best pleased either!

Once at Cairo the previous scenario seemed quite pleasant. The young man who wheel-chaired me away from the plane took me all the way through to land side! He appeared to speak English but did not. It was frighteningly easy for him to then take me up a lift to airside without any checks. Transit desk staff were very brusque and annoyed, and once I was dumped at a door to wait for a bus to go to another terminal I was sceptical the staff had me getting in the right bus for the right terminal. Staff and driver just stared as I struggled to get my bags on the bus with walking stick in hand! And similarly getting off the bus. And then a after a 20 minute wait for the booked assistance, I took it upon myself to get up stairs and to the gate area because it seemed too risky to wait. The crew were shite, the plane was super-shite and one of the 2 toilets was out of order! However, at Nairobi, at 4am, the assistance was amazing and the Kenyans soooo friendly and at every step help was offered. It felt so good to be here.

David, Charity's friend and the delightful man we use for all rides, trips and car hire, was an hour and a half late. He sent me very cheerful messages about the 3.30am client being late etc. but I was reminded I needed to get onto Kenyan time - hakuna matata/no worry. Not my strong suit - stop laughing.

On arrival his huge smile and cheer, and comments about how young I look, were most welcome. So to Charity's we went. Big hugs and tears with Maria and then Charity ensued. And her daughters, Jane and Prescious, and another young woman with a similar history to Maria were up and about to welcome me. The next hour or so went by with lots of laughter and much enjoyment of presents. They are infectious and though everyone is 10 years older they still felt familiar.

The day was Maria's roster day to do the cooking for the day and the washing up. All four girls have their day of this while the others help Charity with the care of her 20-odd chickens, or other chores.  So Maria started cooking eggs for us all and boiling and straining the milk-based chai. I had been looking forward to this chai! I loved seeing Maria so capable and responsible in a household. I know she will have no difficulty managing self care and management in the future. While cooking she told me about the process of making her written application, and interviews with staff and the student community to then be voted a prefect. This involves dispute resolution and managing a committee. When Maria was about 10 years old Charlotte noted that Maria was a leader with her school friends.

I tried to nap for an hour but sleep eluded me even though I hadn't slept since 5am the previous day. Then Maria cooked lunch. David returned with the 7 seater I am using for my time here. We all piled into the van and I drove under David's guidance. My fatigue levels and headache were significant but it had to be done - and I couldn't wait to unpack, shower and put fresh clothes on.

Oh man the Kenyan driving and roads. There are no street signs, and it's a free for all to enter a round about or turn into a street, and the motorbikes and matatus (vans and buses for transport that look decidedly unroadworthy) zip out, in and around you. David called the matatus 'matatu matata' - matata being the worry part of hakuna matata. And if a pedestrian catches your eye they walk out in front of you nonchalantly - as if daring you. However, I also found myself adopting this strategy when we walked to the mall nearby to purchase groceries later in the afternoon.

The apartment I have rented via Airbnb is great. On 15th floor with fabulous views and the pool on the rooftop delightful. We will spend New Year up there watching fireworks over the city. The gang left late afternoon but Jane, Charity's oldest daughter stayed with us to help us in the morning to navigate to a shopping centre where we could buy clothes for Maria (school and personal) at reasonable prices. After going to buy groceries I took them to the restaurant on the ground floor. Maria and Jane wanted to try sushi. It was unusual. It came with steam flowing and with a slice of disguised chili on top.

I slept so well that night. Even though there is considerable noise here from a club not far away. I just put in my EarPods playing the Koln Concert and drifted off. We were supposed to leave 9am the next morning but I didn't wake up until 8.30am. Maria and Jane had stayed in their room and showered and waited for me to wake up. Bless them. We set off around 10am. My first solo drive without David. Only 2 minutes down the road google maps and Jane guided me to make an illegal turn and we got pulled up by two police. We were threatened with going to the station for booking and a fine. I knew this was unlikely but really, in this place it was spooky. After some innocent and shocked responses, and Jane overhearing them speaking in Swahili and responding cleverly, they were prepared to accept only cash for a coffee each - about 100 shillings. I only had large notes on me so pleaded no cash. We were sent on our way. We were off, slowly, and after a safe distance giggling but also very relieved. For the half hour drive to the mall I was all eyes and concentration to spot obscure red lights, and balancing the need for caution and balls to get through about 20 roundabouts (which are always hairy) and cope with matatu matatas. I got this now.

There is incredible security here now. Our building and the mall we went to have guards to check your car interior and boots at the car park entrances, and bollards that lower into the ground and security arms, including at the exits. Presumably the bollards are to stop ramming. And enteance to mall buildings have security checks also. Funny though is that the disability parks at the mall had bollards that lower and a dedicated guard. AND the guard accepted my NZ disability card and lowered the bollard for me. Bloody marvelous! After a long, funfilled and exhausting shop (and a chatty drink break at a cafe) a really nice thing happened. I went to pay for the parking at the machines to find they don't accept cards and I didn't have coins. A Kenyan woman leaned over and put her own coins in, nodded and left. I managed a surprised 'asante sana' (thank you very much).

The drive back was uneventful (phew) and we all collapsed with cold water to rest up. I have cooked dinner, Maria and Jane have washed up in the kitchen and managed clothes washing and hanging it on a rack on the deck. There is Netflix here so they are watching a movie and I'm writing this post. I get the occasional hug from Maria for no reason and it makes me a bit emotional each time. And sometimes she leans into me and I stroke her arm or face. And I'm glad to be here.